There may only be 28 table seats and nine counter stools overlooking the open kitchen at this stripped-back Modern European Soho humdinger, but Aussie chef Cameron Emirali and wine guy Luke Wilson have seriously got their schtick together. Great food? Tick. Cheap wine? Tick. Excellent service? Tick. Good prices? Tick. Buzz? Tick. The only negative is the evenings-only no-reservations policy, but most happily saunter off for a quick drink in the local pub two doors down and wait to be called back on their cell phones. Once seated, expect simple interchangeable starters and mains like butternut ravioli with sage, or scallops and chorizo. Gutsy meats like Brecon lamb shank with mash, Tamworth pork with apple chutney, or venison with potato galette are big and bold, and swing with the seasons. Top-value £5–£.50 desserts, like plum-and-apple crumble or rum panna cotta, provide a heartfelt finish.