Regent's Park and Hampstead

Pubs with a Past

Hampstead has some of the most storied pubs in London—although a few have distinctly shady pasts.

Holly Bush. Tucked away down the lolloping hills and leafy sideroads of old Hampstead is this gorgeously unspoiled old pub, built in 1807. The dim, cozy interior has an open fireplace and wooden booths. The classic British food is excellent; take it in the bar with a pint, or in the rather swankier dining room. 22 Holly Mount, Hampstead, London, NW3 6SG. 020/7435-2892.

Spaniard's Inn. The legendary highwayman Dick Turpin is said to have been born at the Spaniard's Inn, which was once frequented by the likes of Dickens, Shelley, and Stoker. The owners will happily tell you how the latter borrowed one of their many resident ghost stories to furnish the plot of Dracula. After a few hours in this atmospheric spot, you might even believe it. Spaniards Rd., London, NW3 7JJ. 020/8731-8406.

Wells. A plaque outside this Georgian pub delicately informs visitors that it was originally built to provide "facilities for the celebration of unpremeditated and clandestine marriages." These days the spot is far better known as one of the finest gastropubs in the area. 30 Well Walk, London, NW3 1BX. 020/7794-3785.

Magdala. Meanwhile, a much sadder tale is associated with the Magdala, the site of a notorious murder in 1955 for which Ruth Ellis was the last woman in Britain to be hanged. It's a sedate place these days, but the famous bullet holes near the door have been left untouched. 2A South Hill Park, London, NW3 2SB. 020/7435-2503.