Greenwich

The Docklands Resistance

If it hadn't been for the Thames, Roman Londinium, with its sea link to the rest of the world, would not have grown into a world power. For centuries, life was played out by the riverside, and palaces redolent of Venice—such as Westminster and Whitehall—were built.

Dock warehouses sprang up during the 18th century from the trade with the Indies for tea and coffee, spices, and silks. Trade took a gradual downturn after World War II, leading to the docks' degeneration when larger vessels pushed trade farther downriver to Tilbury.

It took a driverless railway and Britain's tallest building—Canary Wharf Tower—to start a renaissance. Now, what was once a desolate quarter near Greenwich is known as the Docklands, a peninsula of waterways with cutting-edge architecture, offices, water-based leisure and cultural activities, restaurants, and bars. Some of the warehouses have been converted into museums and malls, such as Hay's and Butler's wharves.

The best way to explore is on the Docklands Light Railway (DLR), whose elevated track appears to skim over the water past the swanky glass buildings where the railway is reflected in the windows. On foot, however, the Thames Path has helpful plaques along the way, with nuggets of historical information.

Museum of London Docklands. The wonderful old warehouse building, on a quaint cobbled quayside, beside the tower of Canary Wharf, is alone worth a visit. With uneven wood floors, beams, and pillars, the museum used to be a storehouse for coffee, tea, sugar, and rum from the West Indies—hence the name West India Quay.

The fascinating story of the old port and the river is told using films, together with interactive displays and reconstructions, and a permanent exhibition, London, Sugar and Slavery, highlights the capital's involvement in the slave trade. The museum runs a highlights tour (free) on Wednesday and Sunday at 3 pm. There are also a handful of special themed tours per season; call or see the Web site for details. On the second Friday of every month the museum hosts the Docklands Cinema Club, which shows rare and classic films, together with talks, inside the old warehouse. No. 1 Warehouse, West India Quay, Hertsmere Rd., East End, London, E14 4AL. 020/7001-9844. www.museumindocklands.org.uk. Free. Daily 10-6; last admission 5:40. Tube: Canary Wharf; DLR: West India Quay.

Ragged School Museum. In its time, the Ragged School Museum was the largest school in London and a place where impoverished children could get free education and a good meal. The museum re-creates a classroom dating from the 1880s. It's an eye-opener for adults, and fun for kids, who get the chance to work just like Victorian children did in one of the many organized workshops.

If you really want to get into the spirit, visitors of all ages can attend a Victorian-style lesson (complete with fully costumed schoolmistress) from 2:15 to 3:30 on the first Sunday of every month. 46-50 Copperfield Rd., East End, London, EC3 4RR. 020/8980-6405. www.raggedschoolmuseum.org.uk. Free; £2 donation requested for Victorian lessons. Wed. and Thurs. 10-5, 1st Sun. of month 2-5. Tube: Mile End; DLR: Limehouse.

Firepower Royal Artillery Museum. Adjacent to the old Royal Dockyard at Woolwich is a brilliant exhibition of the Firepower Royal Artillery Museum. Complete with smoke and sound effects, it explores the role of the gunner, from the discovery of gunpowder to the Persian Gulf war. Also on show are tanks and guns—some complete with battle scars. Housed in the old Royal Arsenal leading down to the river shore, the museum's setting provides a powerful sense of the Thames and its lingering effect on the capital's history. Royal Arsenal, Woolwich, London, SE18 6ST. 020/8855-7755. www.firepower.org.uk. £5.30. Wed.-Sun. (school holidays daily) 10:30-5. Tube: DLR: Woolwich Arsenal.