Afternoon Tea

Afternoon Tea

The quintessential English afternoon tea ritual has been quietly brewing among London polite society. Perhaps it's the new prim thing, but nevertheless, it is now ever so fashionable to take afternoon tea.

So, what is afternoon tea, exactly? Well, it means real tea (English breakfast, Earl Grey, Ceylon, Indian, or Chinese -- and preferably loose leaf) brewed in a china pot, and usually served with china cups and saucers and silver spoons any time between 3 and 5:30 PM daily. In particularly grand places -- like the bigger hotels -- there should be elegant finger foods on a three-tiered silver tea stand: crustless cucumber, watercress, and egg sandwiches on the bottom; scones with Devonshire clotted cream and strawberry preserve in the middle; and rich fruitcake and fancies on top.

Dress is smart-casual in posh hotels, and conversation should by tradition avoid politics and religion. Babies and children are generally very welcome, with highchairs often available. Make reservations for all these below, unless otherwise noted.

Brown's Hotel. This revamped classic English Mayfair town-house hotel sets the standard at the Tea Room, where one of London's best-known afternoon teas is served. Brown's may rely on its reputation somewhat, but still, everyone swears by its divine armchairs. For £37.50, you get sandwiches, scones with cream and jam, tart, cakes, pastries, and shortbread. 33 Albermarle St., Mayfair, W1. 020/7493-6020. AE, DC, MC, V. Tea Mon.-Fri. 3-6, weekends 2-6. Tube: Green Park.

Café at Sotheby's. What could be better than perusing the finest art and antiques at this famous Mayfair auction house before afternoon tea? It's open from 9:30 AM and tends to book up days in advance. Sotheby's, 34 New Bond St., Mayfair, W1. 020/7293-5077. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Tea weekdays 3-4:45. Tube: Green Park.

Claridge's. This is the real McCoy, with liveried footmen proffering sandwiches, scones, and superior pastries (£32.50 for traditional tea, £42.50 for champagne tea) in the palatial yet genteel foyer, to the sound of the resident "Hungarian orchestra." Also try the £40.50 Lawn Tennis tea, with strawberries and pink champagne. Brook St., Mayfair, W1. 020/7629-8860. AE, DC, MC, V. Tea served daily at 3, 5, 5:30. Tube: Bond St.

The Dorchester. Amid a maze of marble and gold leaf at this grand hotel on Park Lane, afternoon tea in the Promenade is best taken on comfy sofas and to the sound of the resident pianist. Teas are £29, £38, or £43, but book well ahead. 53 Park La., W1. 020/7629-8888. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon.-Fri. 2:30-4:30 PM, weekends. 2:30-4:45 PM. Tube: Kew Gardens.

Fortnum & Mason. Upstairs at the revamped 300-year-old Queen's grocers, three set teas are ceremoniously served: afternoon tea (sandwiches, scones, and cakes: £24), old-fashioned high tea (the traditional nursery meal, adding something more robust and savory: £26), and champagne tea (£34). St. James's Restaurant, 4th fl., 181 Piccadilly, St. James's, W1. 020/7734-8040 Ext. 2241. AE, DC, MC, V. Tea Mon. 10-5:30, Tues.-Sat. 3-5:30. Tube: Green Park.

Harrods. For sweet-tooths, the fourth-floor Georgian Restaurant at this well-known department store has a high tea (£19.95 or £25.95) that will give you a sugar rush for a week. 87-135 Brompton Rd., Knightsbridge, SW3. 020/7730-1234. AE, DC, MC, V. Tea weekdays 3:45-5:30, Sat. 3.45-5:30. Tube: Knightsbridge.

Kandy Tea House. This tiny Sri Lankan tearoom off Kensington Church St. specializes in Ceylon tea. There's quaint cream tea (£7.50 per person) with homemade scones, clotted cream, and jam, or afternoon tea with cucumber sandwiches (£11 or £14). 4 Holland St., Kensington, W8. 020/7937-3001. MC, V. Wed.-Fri. noon-5 PM, weekends noon-6 PM. Tube: High St. Kensington.

The Lanesborough. Tea in the Conservatory is as grand as it gets in the sumptuous former eighteenth century St. George's hospital on Hyde Park Corner. Tea (£28 or £37) is served delightfully to the sound of a resident pianist. Hyde Park Corner, Knightsbridge, SW1. 020/7259-5599. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon.-Sat. 3:30-5:30 PM, Sun. 4-6:30 PM. Tube: Hyde Park Corner.

The Orangery at Kensington Palace. This Georgian, gorgeous, sunlight-flooded, yes, orangery is the perfect place for a light lunch or tea. You can get homemade soups and quiche, cakes, shortbread, pastries, and pots of Earl Grey. Go when it's balmy, or you'll freeze. Kensington Gardens, Holland Park, W8. 020/7376-0239. AE, MC, V. Tube: High St. Kensington, Queensway.

The Original Maids of Honour. A trip to Kew Royal Botanical Gardens is topped off with tea at Maids of Honour. The family-run business is famous for its cakes -- puff pastry with sweet curd -- made from a secret recipe. Prices are low, there's outdoor seating, and it's near Kew's main Victoria Gate entrance. 288 Kew Rd., Kew, TW9. 020/8940-2752. MC, V. Mon 9:30 AM-1 PM, Tues.-Sat. 9:30 AM-6 PM. Tube: Kew Gardens.

Patisserie Valerie at Sagne. Nibble on decadent patisseries with afternoon tea at this ever-reliable, reasonably priced, and stylish café. It's a perfect Marylebone High Street resting point, and you'll adore the towering cakes, chandelier, and murals on the walls. 105 Marylebone High St., Marylebone, W1. 020/7935-6240. AE, MC, V. Weekdays 7:30 AM-7 PM, Sat. 8 AM-7 PM, Sun. 9 AM-6 PM. Tube: Marylebone.

The Ritz. The Ritz's huge, stagy, sometimes cold and overly formal Palm Court orchestrates cake stands, silver pots, a harpist, and Louis XVI chaises, plus a great deal of rococo gilt and glitz, all for £35. Reserve four weeks ahead, more for weekends, but remember: no jeans or sneakers. 150 Piccadilly, St. James's, W1. 020/7493-8181. AE, MC, V. Tea daily 11:30, 1:30, 3:30, 5:30, 7:30. Tube: Green Park.