Nowhere else does London's history come to life so vividly as in this minicity of 20 towers filled with heraldry and treasure, the intimate details of lords and dukes and princes and sovereigns etched in the walls (literally, in some places), and quite a few pints of royal blood spilled on the stones. This is one of Britain's most popular sights -- the Crown Jewels are here -- and you can avoid lines by buying a ticket in advance on the Web site, by phone, or at any tube station; arriving before 11 can also help at busy times. The visitor center provides an introduction to the Tower. Allow at least three hours for exploring, and take time to stroll along the battlements for a wonderful overview.

The Tower holds the royal gems because it's still one of the royal palaces, although no monarch since Henry VII has called it home. It has also housed the Royal Mint, the Public Records, the Royal Menagerie (which formed the basis of the London Zoo), and the Royal Observatory, although its most renowned and titillating function has been as a jail and place of torture and execution.

A person was mighty privileged to be beheaded in the peace and seclusion of Tower Green instead of before the mob at Tower Hill. In fact, only seven people were ever important enough -- among them Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, wives two and five of Henry VIII's six; Elizabeth I's friend Robert Devereux, earl of Essex; and the nine-day queen, Lady Jane Grey, age 17. The executioner's block and ax, along with the equally famous rack, plus assorted thumbscrews, "iron maidens," and so forth, have been moved to the Royal Armouries in Leeds, Yorkshire. (Fans of this genre of heavy metal might want to pay a call on the London Dungeon attraction, just across the Thames.)

Free tours depart every half hour or so from the Middle Tower. They are conducted by the 39 Yeoman Warders, better known as Beefeaters -- ex-servicemen dressed in resplendent navy-and-red (scarlet-and-gold on special occasions) Tudor outfits. Beefeaters have been guarding the Tower since Henry VII appointed them in 1485. One of them, the Yeoman Ravenmaster, is responsible for making life comfortable for the Tower ravens (six birds plus reserves) -- an important duty, because if the ravens were to desert the Tower, goes the legend, the kingdom would fall. Today, the Tower takes no chances: the ravens' wings are clipped.

In prime position stands the oldest part of the Tower and the most conspicuous of its buildings, the White Tower; the other towers were built in the next few centuries. This central keep was begun in 1078 by William the Conqueror; Henry III (1207-72) had it whitewashed, which is where the name comes from. The spiral staircase is the only way up, and here are the Royal Armouries, with a collection of arms and armor. Most of the interior of the White Tower has been altered over the centuries, but the Chapel of St. John the Evangelist, downstairs from the armories, is a pure example of 11th-century Norman style -- very rare, very simple, and very beautiful. Across the moat, Traitors' Gate lies to the right. Opposite Traitors' Gate is the former Garden Tower, better known since about 1570 as the Bloody Tower. Its name comes from one of the most famous unsolved murders in history, the saga of the "little princes in the Tower." In 1483 the uncrowned boy king, Edward V, and his brother Richard were left here by their uncle, Richard of Gloucester, after the death of their father, Edward IV. They were never seen again, Gloucester was crowned Richard III, and in 1674 two little skeletons were found under the stairs to the White Tower. The obvious conclusions have always been drawn -- and were, in fact, even before the skeletons were discovered. The New Armouries have become a restaurant.

The most famous exhibits are the Crown Jewels, in the Jewel House, Waterloo Block. Moving walkways on either side of the jewels hasten progress at the busiest times. You get so close to the fabled gems you feel you could polish them (there are, however, wafers of bulletproof glass), if your eyes weren't so dazzled by the sparkle of the gems, enhanced with special lighting. Before you see them, you view a short film that includes scenes from Elizabeth's 1953 coronation. Security is tight because the jewels -- even though they would be impossible for thieves to sell -- are so priceless that they're not insured. However, they are polished every January by the crown jewelers. A brief résumé of the top jewels: finest of all is the Royal Sceptre, containing the earth's largest cut diamond, the 530-carat Star of Africa. This is also known as Cullinan I, having been cut from the South African Cullinan, which weighed 20 ounces when dug up from a De Beers mine at the beginning of the 20th century. Another chip off the block, Cullinan II, lives on the Imperial State Crown (made for Queen Victoria's coronation in 1838 and adapted to hold the large diamond); Elizabeth II wore this crown at her coronation and wears it annually for the State Opening of Parliament. Another famous gem is the Koh-i-noor, or "Mountain of Light." The legendary diamond, which was supposed to bring luck to women, came from India, and was given to the Queen in 1850. You can see it, in cut-down shape, in the late Queen Mother's Crown.

The little chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula is the second church on the site, and it conceals the remains of some 2,000 people executed at the Tower, Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard among them.

Evocative Beauchamp Tower was built west of Tower Green by Edward I (1272-1307). It was soon designated as a jail for the higher class of miscreant, including Lady Jane Grey, who is thought to have added her Latin graffiti to the many inscriptions carved by prisoners here.

For tickets to the Ceremony of the Keys (locking of main gates, nightly between 9:30 and 10), write well in advance to the Resident Governor and Keeper of the Jewel House (at the Queen's House, address below). Give your name, the date you wish to attend (include alternate dates), and number of people (up to seven) in your party, and enclose a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

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