It's worth stepping away from the center of town to sample the ingenious flights of gastronomic fancy that chef Gordon Jones conjures up in his tiny open kitchen. There is no set menu, but each course is carefully explained before it's served; there might be smoked eel with maple syrup, a crisp haggis, roasted cod with braised oxtail, chervil and giant raisins, and blackberry sorbet with marinated cucumber. You can choose a wine flight to accompany the tasting menus (five-course
lunch £40, six-course dinner £50).The location is unprepossessing and the decor plain, enlivened by a few antlers and phials of oil, but the service is friendly and unstuffy; if you want to talk with the chef about your snail caviar, he will willingly do so. Book well in advance; lunch is easier to reserve than dinner.