As a cheaper alternative to some of the posher places in town, this late-19th-century hotel feels pleasantly down-to-earth. The crystal chandeliers in the lobby and graciously proportioned rooms—some with balconies off the front—are like stepping into the days of Goethe. The upgraded spa offers massages with gold, chocolate, or honey, but there are also regular treatments. The helpful staff can arrange spa treatments and horseback riding. An annex, Dependence, features
12 additional suites.