Southern Bohemia Places

Ceský Krumlov

It's rare that a place not only lives up to its hype but exceeds it. Ceský Krumlov, the official residence of the Rozmberk family for some 300 years, is such a place. It's the only "must-see" in Southern Bohemia. None of the surrounding towns or villages, with their main squares and mixtures of old and new buildings, will prepare you for the storybook qualities you'll see here. The Vltava works its wonders as nowhere else but in Prague itself, swirling in a nearly complete circle around the town, and across the river stands the proud Krumlov Castle, rivaling any other in size and splendor.

Of course, the flip side to all this beauty is tourism, and Ceský Krumlov is one of the most popular destinations for visitors outside the Czech capital. Tourists from around the world—including many from as far as Japan—mix with the day-trippers from neighboring Germany and Austria to create a circus atmosphere. On summer weekends the town fills to the bursting point, making it nearly impossible to find a room or book a table at a restaurant. Try to time your visit here for less busy periods in spring or fall, or weekdays in summer. And always avoid arriving on a summer afternoon or evening without a room reservation in hand.

Although it's known for its castle and picturesque side streets, Ceský Krumlov also makes an excellent base for more active pursuits like hiking, biking, and rafting the Vltava River. Several operators in town now rent bikes and boats. Bike trails follow the road south along the Vltava and fan out across the countryside. The excellent tourist information office on the main square can provide information on equipment rentals.

Ceský Krumlov can be seen in a long day trip from Prague, but it's preferable to spend at least one night here.