An American cooking in the house where the celebrated Czech opera singer Ema Destinnová was born? Somehow chef Steven Trumpfheller makes it work at this basement restaurant. The interior replicates a 1950s Czech living room, right down to the natty couches and chatty diners eating as if attending Sunday supper at mom's house. The modern food contrasts well with the space's vintage look. It's a hybrid of Italian and Czech influences: medallions of duck get a boost from grappa and dried cherries; forest mushrooms and goat cheese add local flair to Caserecce pasta. U Emy Destinnové's seafood selections are also top notch, particularly the black tagliatelle with langoustine in a spicy tomato sauce, and the pan-seared scallops.
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