Gordon Ramsay doesn't lack ambition—or hubris—but he has the skills to back up his bravado at this spot located in the renovated Hilton Old Town. Head chef Phillip Carmichael is the actual man at the stoves, and his food hews to the Ramsay formula with dishes like warmed salmon, saddle of rabbit, and pan-roasted pork belly. Carmichael is bold enough to have his own take on the classic Czech roast duck; here the sliced breast is bolstered by red cabbage with sweet notes of cinnamon. The atmosphere is overformal at times—each course literally arrives on a silver platter—but that's a welcome change in Prague, where service is frequently a weak link. The 650 Kc three-course lunch menu is a steal for the impecunious gourmet.
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