Václavské námestí (Wenceslas Square)

Václavské námestí (Wenceslas Square) Review

Some 500,000 students and citizens gathered here in the heady days of November 1989 to protest the policies of the former communist regime. After a week of demonstrations, the government capitulated without a shot fired or the loss of a single life. After that the first democratic government in 40 years (under playwright-president Václav Havel) was swept into office. This peaceful transfer of power is referred to as the "Velvet Revolution" (the subsequent "Velvet Divorce" from Slovakia took effect in 1993). It's fitting that the 1989 revolution took place on Wenceslas Square: Throughout much of Czech history, the square has served as the focal point for popular discontent. The long "square" was first laid out by Charles IV in 1348, and began its existence as a horse market at the center of the New Town.

At No. 25, the Hotel Europa (Vaclavske nám. 25, 110 00. 224-215-387. www.evropahotel.cz) is an art nouveau gem, with elegant stained glass and mosaics in the café and an unfortunately named "Titanic" restaurant. Note in particular the ornate sculpture work of two figures supporting a glass egg on top of the building and the exterior mural. In 1906, when the hotel opened, this was a place for the elite; now the dilapidated rooms reflect more a sense of sadly faded grandeur that, thankfully, hasn't extended to the public spaces.