An American cooking in the house where the celebrated Czech opera singer Ema Destinnová was born? Somehow chef Steven Trumpfheller pulls it off at this basement restaurant. The interior replicates a cozy living room, right down to the natty couches and chatty diners eating as though enjoying a Sunday supper at Mom's house. But the modern cooking is beyond mom's stovetop—it's a hybrid of American and Continental influences, with entrées like a Black Angus N.Y. strip steak, Scottish salmon served in a lime-flavored artichoke puree, and veal medallions sautéed in a mushroom cream sauce. Enjoy live piano music on Wednesday and Thursday evenings.