2 Best Sights in Zagreb and Environs, Croatia

A fairy-tale village of water mills and waterfalls, this relatively little-known gem is known as the Mini Plitvice for good reason. Rastoke sits at the intersection of the mighty Korana River and the smaller sparkling Slunjčica. Some 23 waterfalls are nearby, the most famous of which are Buk, Hrvoje, and Vilina Kosa (Fairy's Hair), along with plenty of babbling rapids. The geological makeup of Rastoke's waterfalls is identical to those of Plitvice, just smaller in scale. Legend says this peaceful retreat is home to vile (fairies), who love to bathe in the Vilina Kosa waterfall. A handful of restaurants (for the best freshwater fish around, try Ambar in nearby Slunj) and charming rentable apartments and rooms await. There's also a 7½-km (4½-mile) walking trail (one-way). As Croatian writer Ratko Zvrko (1920–1998) implored, writing of Rastoke, "Here you should stay, and further don't be steered! Here, where life into streams is canalized, here, in this roar of wild waters you hear, lies peace for the soul and feast for the eyes!" The village is 105 km (65 miles) southwest of Zagreb and 33 km (21 miles) north of Plitvice Lakes National Park.

In a bucolic hilly setting near the Slovenian border, 15 km (9 miles) northwest of Čakovec, the village of Štrigova is best known as the largest producer of Međimurje wines. More than 20 wineries on a wine route through Štrigova and its surroundings offer tastings. It's also attractive for hiking and cycling routes (a lovely bike trail stretches from Međimurje to Hungary), the Mađerkin Breg viewpoint, the Church of St. Jerome, and three historic castles. A car or a bike is the preferred method of transport here, so that you can cruise the wine route and hit the highlights.

The first thing you're likely to notice about the Church of St. Jerome (Crkva Svetog Jeronima), which is perched on a hillside above the village center, is its yellow-and-white double steeple. Completed in 1749, the church is dedicated to the village's most famous son: St. Jerome (340–420), known for translating the Bible from Greek and Hebrew into Latin. Note the painting of a bearded St. Jerome on the facade, framed by two little windows made to look like red hearts. The church is also noted for its wall and ceiling frescoes by Baroque artist Ivan Ranger the Baptist (1700–1753). The building is usually closed, but you can call the local tourist board to arrange a look inside.