There's a lovely old manor house waiting for you—a 15-minute drive east of Veliki Tabor—where you can have your spacious room with period furniture and breakfast, too, for under €100 a night. Owned by various barons since Count Keglević built it in the 17th century, Bežanec Castle got a new lease on life as a luxury hotel in 1990. Part of its charm is its authenticity, and the furnishings, while in tip-top, dust-free shape, actually feel like the real, 17th-century
McCoy. Splendid works by various Croatian artists, including a whole series of superb naive paintings by Slavko Stolmik, line the halls. With advance notice, the hotel will pick up guests who arrive by bus in Veliki Tabor. Any activity, from hot-air balloon rides and horseback-riding instruction to tennis and archery, can be yours, too, for reasonable fees. Call ahead to check availability.