Specializing in vegetarian and vegan fare, this friendly eatery in the old town has just a dozen tables and is deservedly extremely popular. You might start with the excellent gazpacho, followed by either the Grah (a spicy bean ragout served with grilled polenta alla parmigiana) or the Indiastic (a platter of yellow dahl, palak paneer, and a vegetable curry, served with rice and naan bread). There's also a help-yourself salad bar, plus a limited choice of indulgent
desserts. Reservations recommended, especially for dinner.