If you want to get far off the beaten path, then consider a trip to Benkovac. There's next to no tourism in Benkovac. The only hotel in town—a concrete box called the Hotel Asseria (named after an ancient city whose ruins lie nearby)—is hardly a place for a cozy stay. The town was abandoned by most of its Serb population by the mid-1990s, and it's strangely empty on most summer days. Despite its spare feel, Benkovac's small business district is attractive, and the town is so close to Zadar that it's easily done as a day trip. You'll certainly leave Croatia with a richer impression of its diversity and of the reality of so many small inland towns away from the tourist path.

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