Located on the palm-lined waterfront, opposite the ferry landing station, Hotel Riva is considered one of Hvar's hippest hotels. The rooms are rather small but funky, each decorated in pale gray with splashes of red, and a large black-and-white portrait of a film icon such as Anita Ekberg or James Dean. The prudish may not approve of the bathrooms, since the shower cubicle is visible from the bedroom through a large clear-glass window. Out front there is an open-air terrace decorated with potted olive trees, where the Roots Restaurant serves innovative Mediterranean cuisine and the B.B. Club cocktail bar works into the early hours. If you object to late-night noise, forfeit the sea view and ask for a room at the back.