The Meuse and the Ardennes Places

Liège

The bustling city of Liège—Luik to the Flemish and Dutch, Lüttich to the Germans—sits deep in the Meuse valley at the confluence of the Meuse and Ourthe rivers. After Belgian independence in 1830, Liège was a leader in a countrywide upsurge of industrial activity, and that, for good and bad, has marked its character ever since. The first European locomotive was built in Liège, and the Bessemer steel production method was developed here; it is to the burning furnaces that Liège owes its nickname, la cité ardente (the Fiery City). The surrounding hills and rivers were rich in minerals, including potassium, calcium, iron, and sand, and these resources were heavily mined. Drawing on a centuries-old tradition of weapons manufacturing, the Fabrique Nationale started to build precision firearms, and Val St-Lambert began to produce glassware that has gained worldwide recognition. Liège's port, one of the biggest inland waterways in Europe, was busy with barges and other commercial vessels. In August 1914 the forts of Liège kept the German invasion force at bay long enough for the Belgian and French troops to regroup; in 1944-45, more than a thousand V1 and V2 missiles exploded in the city.

Liège's outskirts are still lined with industrial facilities—some operational, some (notably Val St-Lambert and Blegny) transformed into innovative museums, and others closed. Although the views may not be beautiful, you shouldn't let this deter you from giving Liège its due. A soot-covered old building may house a historic treasure, a delicious meal, or a glorious flower shop. (Liège has many talented florists whose windows brighten up the city streets.) An inconspicuous cobblestone alley could be home to busy cafés and architectural gems.

The Liègeois have a reputation for friendliness and are clearly proud of their city. Blue and white plaques are visible on the portals of the many buildings that have been designated Wallonian heritage sights. Walloon can still be heard on the streets and is taught at the local university, where students have been known to say, "Po brêre on èst chal, po bêure!" (We are not here to complain, we are here to drink!) Tchantchès, Liège's beloved puppet with his red nose and indefatigable attitude, is the town mascot. Pèkèt, a regional genever made from juniper berries and consumed straight up, is plentiful. And, every Sunday morning, as has happened for centuries, the quai is transformed into La Batte, one of Europe's biggest weekly street markets.

In addition to its own merits, Liège is a good urban base from which to explore forests, parks, and other pleasures that lie to its south.

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