Where to Stay & Eat

In Ieper

't Ganzeke. A favorite of locals as well as hungry tourists, this restaurant's (¢-$$$) menu of hearty meals includes giant kebabs, steaks, and a large selection of pancakes and ice cream. Vandepeereboomplein 5. 057/20-00-09. Closed Mon.

Old Tom. The name of this traditional restaurant ($-$$$) is as matter-of-fact as the food; here you'll find unfussy but appetizing Flemish standards, such as beef stew with beer, river eel, and chicken waterzooi. You can also stay in one of the nine modest rooms for €68, which have a TV and bathroom. Grote Markt 8. 057/20-15-41. www.oldtom.be.

Gasthof 't Zweerd. Here you'll find comfortable, well-equipped rooms (¢), some of them offering a nice view of the Grote Markt. You can dine in the cozy restaurant or grab a snack in the brasserie. Grote Markt 2. 057/20-04-75. www.gasthof-tzweerd.be. 17 rooms.

Regina. In a sturdy neo-Gothic brick building directly on the Grote Markt, this fresh, comfortable hotel ($) has generous, light-filled spaces and 20 up-to-date rooms that tip their hats to various cultural figures such as Matisse and Edith Piaf. Just about everything has been upgraded except the windows. The only drawback is the traffic noise. Grote Markt 45, B8900. 057/21-88-88. www.hotelregina.be. Breakfast.

Around Ieper

Hostellerie Mont Kemmel. Atop Flanders's highest peak (Mont Kemmel is a classic ascent during the yearly Ronde van Vlaanderen bike tour), 16 well-appointed rooms ($) offer panoramic views over Flanders Fields. Chef Solange Bentin cooks up sophisticated specialties in the elegant restaurant ($$$-$$$$). A bar, tennis court, and golf course are all nearby. Kemmelbergweg 34, Kemmel, B8958. 7 km (4½ mi) south of Ieper on N331. 057/45-21-60. www.kemmelberg.be. Restaurant closed Mon. and Tues., except to hotel guests.

Hotel Kasteelhof 't Hooghe. Ever stayed in a hotel with authentic trenches, craters and bunkers in the yard? This mansion, situated on the former front line, was once the headquarters of the British army. The rooms (¢) and their view over Flanders Fields won't disappoint even the most demanding visitors. Meenseweg 481, Zillebeke. 4 km (2½ mi) southeast of Ieper. 057/46-87-87. www.hotelkasteelhofthooghe.be.

De Klaproos. The name of this small bed-and-breakfast (¢) at the corner of the Tyne Cot cemetery means "the poppy." There are two bedrooms (with a third on the way), a fully equipped kitchen, a small bathroom with shower, and a terrace. Bikes are free. Tynecotstraat 26. 050/77-87-53. www.deklaproos.com. No credit cards.

In Poperinge

D'Hommelkeete. This low-slung Flemish farmhouse ($$$-$$$$) close to the French border combines rustic and modern decor, and it's said to be the best place to experience the elusive and expensive delicacy called hopscheuten (hop shoots). This special treat is only available for three weeks in spring, so call ahead. Braised sea scallops, warm goose liver, and venison noisettes will ease your disappointment if you arrive at other times. Hoge Noenweg 3. 057/33-43-65. Thurs.-Sun. noon-2 and 7-9.

In La Roche-en-Ardenne

Le Midi. Food is the real reason to visit this tiny, old, cliff-side hotel; straightforward regional specialties are simply and stylishly served in the restaurant ($-$$). In season, wild game such as tenderloin of young boar in old port is superbly cooked; there's also air-dried Ardennes ham with candied onions. The eight modern hotel rooms (¢-$) have distinctly local, if not antique, furnishings. Breakfast is included. Rue de Beausaint 6, B6980. 084/41-11-38. www.hotelmidi.com.

Auberge La Grande Cure. This rural hideaway is tucked outside the village of Marcourt. Proprietors Hélène and Tim Christensen make you feel like you're staying in their home. After a day exploring the countryside, settle down to a fabulous, Mediterranean-inspired 3-, 4-, or 7-course fixed-price meal ($$$$; reservations essential). The nine guest rooms ($) are simple but comfortable. You can lounge on the terrace in summer, or warm yourself by the fireplace in the library in winter. Les Planesses 12, B6987. 084/47-73-69. www.lagrandecure.be.

Claire Fontaine. Set on a gorgeous bluff, this family hotel ($-$$) has a string of parlors lined with eccentric bric-a-brac. The 28 spacious, modern rooms have magnificent views, as does the bustling restaurant ($$-$$$). If you like seafood, order the crayfish and trout with almonds. Meat-eaters will enjoy the veal sweetbreads. Rte. de Hotton 64, B6980. 084/41-24-70. www.clairefontaine.be. Breakfast.

Les Genêts. At this romantic old mountain inn, each of the eight rooms ($) have stenciled wallpaper and a homey mix of plaid, paisley, and chintz. Picture windows take in valley views on two sides. The restaurant ($$?$$$) serves traditional dishes. Corniche de Deister 2, B6980. 084/41-18-77. www.lesgenetshotel.com.

In Bastogne

Wagon-Restaurant Léo. Originally a tiny, chrome railroad diner, this local institution has spilled over across the street into the chicly refurbished Bistro Léo. The restaurant ($-$$) serves huge platters of Belgian standards while in the bistro, quiche, and homemade lasagna are the fare. In 2003, Wagon Léo opened At Home, a comfortable, modern hotel, right next to the restaurant on Pl. MacAuliffe. The 14 rooms ($) are very spacious and all have three single beds. Rue du Vivier 8. 061/21-14-41.

Best Western Hotel Melba. A walking path to the Bastogne Historical Center begins right behind this modern chain hotel ($), which is also a couple of minutes' walk from place MacAuliffe. The 34 rooms don't have much character, but they're roomy, bright, and comfortable. Av. Mathieu 49-51, B6600. 061/21-77-78. www.hotel-melba.com.