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Ghent has long held a place in the hearts of Belgian gourmands, in part due to the enduring popularity of Gentse waterzooi—a classic Flemish dish of boiled chicken covered in thin strips of leek, carrot, and onion, all swamped in a delicious creamy broth. However, these days the city is causing a very modern stir in the food wor
Ghent has long held a place in the hearts of Belgian gourmands, in part due to the enduring popularity of Gentse waterzooi—a classic Flemish dish of boiled chicken covered in thin strips of leek, carrot, and onion, all swamped in a delicious creamy broth. However, these
Ghent has long held a place in the hearts of Belgian gourmands, in part due to the enduring popularity of Gentse waterzo
Ghent has long held a place in the hearts of Belgian gourmands, in part due to the enduring popularity of Gentse waterzooi—a classic Flemish dish of boiled chicken covered in thin strips of leek, carrot, and onion, all swamped in a delicious creamy broth. However, these days the city is causing a very modern stir in the food world thanks to a group of young childhood friends, now chefs, rather cringingly dubbed the "Flemish foodies." Their emergence has turned this old industrial port into something of a culinary destination—the Patershol area is particularly blessed. But away from the glare of Michelin stars, there's still plenty of good, cheap, traditional food to be found, especially of the seafood variety.
Dishes at this Michelin-starred bistro from established Ghent chef Olly Ceulenaere are intricately prepared with a depth of flavor that belies their often simple ingredients. A small, ever-changing set menu invariably delivers. It's a bit of a walk from the city center, but that hasn't kept the crowds away. Booking is essential, and as you leave, a sign above the door reads "Bugger off quietly."
This charming redbrick eatery on the corner of Collegestraat rings all the right bells. There is nothing too adventurous here; French and Flemish crowd-pleasers are the order of the day, from cordon bleu and stoofvlees to fillet of Mechelse koekoek (a local breed of chicken from Mechelen). But the result is pleasing and the quality consistent.
Hidden away among the museum streets of Deurle, this brasserie is best known for its "grandma cooking." Expect veal kidneys lashed with sharp Ghentish Tierenteyn mustard, a hearty stoofvlees of stewed pork cheeks with a side of rough-cut apple sauce, and beef from the Basque Country.
Philippe de Denterghemlaan 31, Deurle, Flanders, 9831, Belgium
An old favorite among locals. Its village-center location, spilling onto the cobbles beneath the church, sets a convivial scene. Inside, the "The Old Farm," as it's known, is nothing of the sort; it was originally built some 300 years ago as a rectory, then repurposed as a school before settling as the town inn. Opt for either a sharing menu (all oysters, chicken wings, and mussels) or the usual brasserie favorites, with big steaks, beery stews, and the addition of the lesser-seen "lobster Belle Vue" (a more costly take on a prawn cocktail) catching the eye.
The setting is everything here. The beautiful terrace, on the doorstep of Ooidonk Castle, makes for a delightful retreat for the walkers, cyclists, and day-trippers that make up the clientele. Its menu is a solid mix of brasserie standards with a few twists, including an Ostend-style fish stew, truffle-flavored croque monsieur, and a game ragout. Be warned though: it stops serving dinner at 6:30 pm, so it's one for early birds.
Expect beautifully prepared dishes served in an elegant mansion house on the Grotemarkt. Everything about Kokarde screams good taste, especially the menu where dishes of cod and ceps (wild mushrooms) in truffle butter mingle with scallops and pork cheek. The set menus are also good value for what you get.
Grote Markt 9--10, Dendermonde, Flanders, 9200, Belgium
This historic building, opposite the town hall, makes for a winning impression. It has also recently taken on new owners, who understand the beauty in classic Flemish cooking (think: americain, eel in green sauce, and so on) alongside some simple sharing plates. The setting is as impeccable as ever, however, gazing out across the square from an elegant mansion house.
Uncluttered dishes of classic French-Belgian favorites are the stock in trade of this elegant local restaurant. Their specialty is lobster (there's even a dedicated lobster tasting menu), but you'll find a wealth of interesting flavors here, from a dish of local pheasant, chestnut, and pear to wallet-busting Belgian caviar. The €16 lunch menu is also superb value.
At peak times, this enormously popular brasserie in an old warehouse off the Korenmarkt crackles with energy. A giant Greek statue makes an incongruous counterpoint to the marble-top tables, parquet floors, and long oak bar, but there's no denying its craft. Locals rave about the seafood and the oyster bar, or you can choose the "market menu," based on what the chef picked up fresh that morning.
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