Moules the Word

Munching mussels in Brussels is one local Belgian tradition that most visitors don't pass up. The national dish is in season from September to February and most of the mussels are swept from the North Sea straight to your plate. Traditionally they are served in a large, steaming, black pot of savory broth, with a portion of Belgian frites and a large dollop of mayonnaise. The broth is usually à la marinere, a tasty sauce of white wine, shallots, parsley, and butter; occasionally the white wine is replaced by Belgian beer. Another common method of serving is à la crème, where the stock is thickened with flour and heavy cream.

Among the many fish restaurants in the maze of little alleyways behind the Grand'Place, mussels can be found in and out of season. Chez Léon on rue des Bouchers is a favorite for mussels tasting. Tourists and personalities from the world of business, culture, and politics flock to the restaurant to try one of 14 homemade mussels recipes, including the moules speciale, made from a secret casserole recipe.

Aux Armes de Bruxelles, also on rue des Bouchers, is another good option for indulging in mussels. But for those seeking a less-touristy location to enjoy the famous Belgian dish, place Ste-Catherine has a good reputation for delicious fish restaurants. Bij den Boer, on the Quai des Briques next to the square, is a popular treat for locals who rave about its wide range of fish specialities.