Architecture and food aficionados will appreciate the classic French cuisine and somber decor in this splendid Art Nouveau building. This former teahouse, sewing school, and police office maintains its original floor mosaic, and the whitewashed walls and dome-shaped roof parallel its haute cuisine. French chef Julien Burlat and wife Sophie Verbeke, former stylist for Dries Van Noten, set up this restaurant (and its marine version, Dome sur Mer, just a stone's throw away) in the upscale Zurenborg neighborhood. Enjoy the monkfish with fresh spinach, pumpkin oil, and red-wine sauce, or saddle of lamb and eggplant caviar in wild-thyme sauce. The sign by the front door here is so discreet you may well walk straight past without realizing.
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