When to Go

Vienna is warm and sunny in May and June, and in September and October; July and August can be hot and stormy, with temperatures reaching into the high 90s°F. From November through March winter can get cold, with snow falling in January and February; lows of 10°F are frequent.

Culturally, high season in Vienna is May, June, and September, when festivals, marathons, concerts, and operas are in full swing. The ball season December to February offers everyone a chance to brush up on his or her footwork and the many Christmas markets attract crowds from all over the world.

Many Viennese leave the city in July and August, so the city tones down some, though this is also when you might find discounted rates at hotels.

Christkindlmarkt (Christmas Market). In Vienna the biggest Christkindlmarkt goes up in November in the plaza in front of the city's Rathaus (town hall); there are more than 20 smaller ones dotted around town (including outside Schönbrunn and the Belvedere Palace, in the Spittelberg Quarter on the Freyung square, and in front of Karlkirche on Karlsplatz).

Wiener Philharmoniker. The New Year in Vienna is greeted with a concert by the Vienna Philharmonic. Reserve a year, or even more, in advance. 01/505-6525. www.musikverein.at.

Kammeroper. 01/513-1513.

Kaiserball. The New Year is marked by an array of balls, such as the Kaiserball, held in the elegant rooms of the Hofburg. 01/587-3666-23. www.hofburg.com.

On January 6 children disguised as the Magi walk the streets, especially out in the country, knock on doors, sing a song and recite poems about coming from afar, and ask for a small donation.

Fasching. In February, Fasching (or Fasnacht, as it's called in the western part of the country), the Carnival period before Lent, can get very wild, with huge processions of disguised figures and the occasional unwilling participation by spectators.

Wiener Opernball. One of the year's biggest society events is the Vienna Opera Ball, held the Thursday before Ash Wednesday at the magnificent Staatsoper. 01/514-44-2606.

the Staatsoper 01/514-44-2606. www.staatsoper.at.

Wiener Festwochen. The Wiener Festwochen —a festival of theater, music, films, and exhibitions—takes over Vienna from mid-May to mid-June. www.festwochen.at.

September 1 marks the start of Vienna's theater and music season.