Practically a shrine—indeed, almost a museum—the beloved Hawelka was the hangout of most of Vienna's modern artists, and the café has acquired quite an admirable art collection over the years. The city grieved openly when its founder Leopold Hawelka died at the age of 100 four years ago. As you enter the rather dark interior, wait to be seated—which is unusual in Vienna—but then you can ask to have a look at the guest book, itself a work of art, with entries including
some very illustrious names (Elias Canetti, Andy Warhol, Tony Blair et al.) Back in the 1960s, the young John Irving enjoyed the atmosphere here, too, as you can see when reading The Hotel New Hampshire. The Hawelka is most famous for its Buchteln, a baked bun with a sweet filling, served fresh from the oven after 10 pm.