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Liechtenstein Museum Review

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Liechtenstein Museum

Fodor's Review:

Palais Liechtenstein is home to the Prince of Liechtenstein's private art collection, an accumulation so vast only a tenth of it is on display. Prince Karl I of Liechtenstein began collecting art back in the 17th century, and each of his descendents added to the family treasure trove. The palace itself is a splendid example of Baroque architecture. While this was built up on the then-outskirts of the city, a mere "summer palace" was not grand enough for Prince Johann Adam Andreas I, who had already erected five other Liechtenstein palaces, including his family's gigantic Viennese winter palace on the Bankgasse. He instead commissioned a full-blown town palace from plans drawn up by Domenicio Martinelli. A Marble Hall, grand staircases, impressive stuccowork by Santino Bussi (who was paid with 40 buckets of wine in addition to a tidy sum), and sumptuous ceiling frescoes by Marcantonio Franceschini and Andrea Pozzo made this a residence fitting for one of the J. Paul Gettys of his day. Surrounding the palace was a great swampland dubbed "Lichtenthal" when it was transformed into a Baroque-style garden; today, it has been restored along the lines of an English landscape park, but with Baroque statues and topiaries.

The pride of the museum is the Peter Paul Rubens Room, showcasing the Decius Mus cycle, which illustrates episodes from the life of the heroic ancient Roman consul who waged a war against the Latins. The grandest picture of the eight-painting cycle illustrates the death of the consul, and it is high drama, indeed: Decius Mus gazes up to heaven as he falls off his massive gray steed as a lance pierces his throat in the middle of a pitched battle. All these paintings were made as models for a tapestry series, which is why Rubens's panels are so enormous. There are other Rubens gems here, including one of his best children's portraits, that of his daughter, Clara Serena Rubens. It's easy to spend the greater part of a day here. Behind the palace is the exquisite landscaped park.

  • Cost: EUR 10
  • Open: Fri.-Tues. 10-5
  • U-Bahn: Bus: 40A/Bauernfeldplatz, Tram: D/Bauernfeldplatz
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