Vienna's Sweetest Vice

Vienna's Sweetest Vice

Many think that the chief contribution of the people who created the Viennese waltz and the operetta comes with the dessert course in the form of rich and luscious pastries, and in the beloved and universal Schlagobers (whipped cream).

First stop for sweet lovers, pastry fans, and marzipan maniacs has to be Demel (Kohlmarkt 14, 1st District. 01/535-1717-0), a 200-year-old confectioner famous for its sweetmeats that make every heart beat faster (and eventually slower). The display cases are filled to the brim; all you have to do is point at what you want and then go and sit where you want. But don't forget to watch the pastry chef at work in the glassed-over, glassed-in courtyard. Beyond the shop proper are stairs that lead to dining salons where the decor is almost as sweet as the goods on sale. Chocolate lovers will want to try the Viennese Sachertorte (two layers of dense chocolate cake, with apricot jam sandwiched between, and chocolate icing on top) debate by sampling Demel's version and then comparing it with its rival at the Café Sacher, in the Hotel Sacher. Gerstner (Kärntnerstrasse 13-15. 01/5124963), in the heart of the bustling Kärntnerstrasse, is one of the best places for dark, moist, mouthwatering poppyseed cake (Mohntorte, carrot cake, and chocolate-dipped strawberries. Rumor has it that the best strudel in town is to be had here. Its decor is modern, but the place has been here since the mid-18th century.

Oberlaa (Neuer Markt 16. 01/513-2936.) has irresistible confections such as the Oberlaa Kurbad cake, truffle cake, and chocolate mousse cake. Popular with the locals and great value for money, there are now six Oberlaa branches to choose from. The good lunch menu includes vegetarian dishes. Sperl (Gumpendorferstrasse 11, 6th District/Mariahilf. 01/586-4158), founded in 1880, has an Old Viennese ambience.

It doesn't really matter which of the many branches of Aida (Neuer Markt 16. 01/513-2936.) you visit—they're all quite similar. Aida is most famous for the cheapest cup of (excellent) coffee in town, but the incredibly inexpensive pastries are just fantastic.