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Although this region contains fine restaurants—in fact, two of the country's top dozen dining establishments are here—most of the dining in the small towns of the Eastern Alps will take place in Gasthöfs or Gasthäuses—chalet-style country hotels and inns with flower-decked balconies and overhanging eaves. Note that in many cases such inns are closed in the off-season, particularly November and possibly April or May.
Idyllically set on the east side of the Stubnerkogel, directly on the ski slope, this Alpine hut is one of the oldest in Europe, remarkably well preserved, with wooden interiors and a huge open fire. Wooden parlors and a big terrace, with a spectacular view over Bad Gastein, invite visitors in for a substantial meal, followed by a couple of drinks after a hike or long skiing day. Try the roasted Hörnchen (a kind of pasta) with liverwurst hash and endive potato salad, or one of the desserts, such as traditional Austrian Kaiserschmarrn (chopped up pancakes served with fruit compote, often apple or plum) or Schwarzbeernocken (blackberry or blueberry dumplings). You'll need a car or taxi to get here; in winter you can ski in or take the restaurant's own chairlift. Reservations are highly recommended during winter, when it's a popular après-ski spot. For the complete Alpine experience, it also has 12 nice rooms.
In the hotel of the same name, the restaurant is in a charming, typically Austrian stube—all wood paneled and cozy—and serves regional specialties and international cuisine. Its popularity extends to locals and visitors alike, which makes for a good atmosphere. It has been awarded 13 Gault Millau points for menu selections such as pork fillet in an herb and bacon crust or braised veal with a cream sauce and small dumplings. It offers a daily three-course lunch menu (with seasonal fare) for €27.
As the name suggests, the Steinerwirt dates back almost as far as Columbus's Atlantic voyage. It is family run, and its newest generation of owners and staff have brought modernity to the cuisine while maintaining the original Alpine flair. The authentic atmosphere makes the place a favorite for locals and travelers alike. A particular highlight is the wine cellar---home to great wines for more than 525 years---with some fine Austrian wines; the staff are happy to help you choose the right pairing. The roast pork served with bread dumplings and red cabbage and the Tafelspitz (slow-cooked beef with creamed spinach and a horseradish-and-chive sauce) are excellent.
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