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Tobago
Diving
An abundance of fish and coral thrives on the nutrients of Venezuela's Orinoco River, which are brought to Tobago by the Guyana current. Off the west coast is Arnos Vale Reef, with a depth of 40 feet and several reefs that run parallel to the shore. Here you can spot French and queen angelfish, moray eels, southern stingrays, and even the Atlantic torpedo ray. Much of the diving is drift diving in the mostly gentle current. Crown Point, on the island's southwest tip, is a good place for exploring the Shallows—a plateau at 50 to 100 feet that's favored by turtles, dolphins, angelfish, and nurse sharks. Just north of Crown Point on the southwest coast, Pigeon Point is a good spot to submerge. North of Pigeon Point, long, sandy beaches line the calm western coast; it has a gradual offshore slope and the popular Mt. Irvine Wall, which goes down to about 60 feet.
A short trip from Charlotteville, off the northeast tip of the island, is St. Giles Island. Here are natural rock bridges—London Bridge, Marble Island, and Fishbowl—and underwater cliffs. The waters off Speyside on the east coast draw scuba-diving aficionados for the many manta rays in the area. Exciting sites in this area include Batteaux Reef, Angel Reef, Bookends, Blackjack Hole, and Japanese Gardens—one of the loveliest reefs, with depths of 20 to 85 feet and lots of sponges.
Tobago is considered a prime diving destination, as the clear waters provide maximum visibility. Every species of hard coral and most soft corals can be found in the waters around the island. Tobago is also home to the largest-known brain coral. Generally, the best diving is around the Speyside area. Many hotels and guesthouses in this area cater to the diving crowd with minimalist accommodations and easy access to the water. You can usually get the best deals with these "dive-and-stay" packages.
AquaMarine Dive Ltd. On the northeast coast, AquaMarine is friendly, laid-back, and popular with casual divers. Blue Waters Inn, Batteaux Bay, Speyside, Tobago. 868/639-4416. www.aquamarinedive.com.
CaribStu. World traveler Stuart Sampson decided to settle in Tobago and launch CaribStu, a personalized diving service for individuals or couples. On the beach, between the jetty and the gas station, Charlotteville, Tobago. 868/733-1298. www.caribstu.com.
Tobago Dive Experience. Class sizes at Tobago Dive Experience are kept small to ensure that all divers get the attention they need. It has the most comprehensive range of courses, including PADI, NAUI, and BSAC, and prices are very competitive. Manta Lodge, Speyside, Tobago. 868/639-7034. www.tobagodiveexperience.com.
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