Trinidad and Tobago are among the top 10 spots in the world in terms of the number of species of birds per square mile -- more than 430, many living within pristine rain forests, lowlands and savannahs, and fresh- and saltwater swamps. If you're lucky, you might spot the collared trogon, Trinidad piping guan (known locally as the common pawi), or rare white-tailed Sabrewing hummingbird. Restaurants often hang feeders outside on their porches, as much to keep the birds away from your food as to provide a chance to see them. Both the Asa Wright Nature Centre and Caroni Bird Sanctuary are major bird-watching destinations.
The Point-a-Pierre Wildfowl Trust (Petrotrin Complex, Point-a-Pierre. 868/658-4200 Ext. 2512) is a haven for rare bird species on 26 acres within the unlikely confines of a petrochemical complex; you must call in advance for a reservation. Winston Nanan (868/645-1305. nantour@tstt.net.tt) is a self-taught ornithologist who knows the local fauna as well as his own children. He will arrange personal tours in his own car anywhere on the island. His business is based at the Caroni Bird Sanctuary, but his expertise makes a trip with him to the Northern Range or the northeast a must for any true bird-watcher. It won't be cheap, but the personal attention and his willingness to try to find rare species are well worth the expense.
Some 200 varieties of birds have been documented on Tobago: look for the yellow oriole, scarlet ibis, and the comical motmot -- the male of the species clears sticks and stones from an area and then does a dance complete with snapping sounds to attract a mate. The flora is as vivid as the birds. Purple-and-yellow poui trees and spectacular orange immortelles splash color over the countryside, and something is blooming virtually every season. Pat Turpin and Renson Jack at Pioneer Journeys (868/660-4327 or 868/660-5175. pturpin@tstt.net.tt) can give you information about their bird-watching tours of Bloody Bay rain forest and Louis d'Or River valley wetlands. Naturalist and ornithologist David Rooks operates Rooks Nature Tours (462 Moses Hill, Lambeau. 868/756-8594. www.rookstobago.com), offering bird-watching walks inland and trips to offshore bird colonies. He's generally considered to be the best guide on the island.