St. Martin and St. Maarten

The majority of the yacht crew doesn't know the difference between a gaff and a gallow, but that isn't a deterrent for this race. Off they go aboard Dennis Connor's America's Cup winner Stars and Stripes. The wind howls through the sails, and Captain Morgan (not the pirate but a sailor from Jamaica) shouts, "Get ready to tack. We can take the lead." The trimmers, grinders, and winchers man their stations. The boat gets within hearing range of its rival, another Cup contender, Canada II, and friendly barbs are exchanged.

The St. Maarten 12-Metre Challenge is a singular experience. Then again, the island of St. Maarten/St. Martin is unique. The 37-square-mi (96-square-km) island is governed by two nations—the Netherlands and France—with residents from 70 different countries. Happily for Americans, who make up the majority of visitors, English works in both nations. Dutch St. Maarten might feel particularly comfortable for Americans, the prices are lower, the big hotels have casinos, and there is more nightlife. There are also huge cruise ships, which disgorge masses of shoppers into the Philipsburg shopping area at midday. But once you pass the meandering, unmarked border into the French side, you will find quiet countryside, fine cuisine, and harbor areas where you can nibble a fresh brioche with your café au lait as the fishermen come in with the morning catch.

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