The Pavilion Review
Imagine a semi-alfresco cathedral constructed of raw limestone coral overlooking a palm-fringed sandy crescent: that's The Pavilion, the ritzy Christophe Harbour beach club open to nonmembers for dinner only. The soaring interior blends colonial and contemporary with aplomb: a curved exhibition kitchen, streamlined bar stools, and abstract pendant lamps contrast with "found" sculptural sea fans and driftwood, antique settees, and 19th-century black-and-white photos of Kittitian scenes. Executive Chef Damien Heaney similarly blends tradition and innovation, taking the confusion out of fusion cuisine. Even such "traditional" fare as conch fritters is goosed with pickled ginger and passion fruit coulis and artfully presented with swirls of jerk mayo. Stunners such as beef tenderloin rubbed with five peppercorn, accompanied by fresh figs, local greens, and sorrel glaze or Creole-spiced swordfish with clams, pale-ale sofrito, and sweet pea risotto provide textbook examples of how to juxtapose textures, flavors, even colors. Wednesday night's $39 Chef's Appreciation prix fixe is an amazing buy. The wine list features some surprising bargains, especially among whites, and you can finish your meal in style with one of a dozen aged rums.
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