You're treated like a beloved relative rather than a commercial guest at this quintessential Caribbean inn, formerly a sugar plantation, at the foot of Mt. Liamuiga. The 18th-century greathouse (opt for top-floor rooms) and stone cottages hold commodious lodgings with hardwood floors, Laura Ashley-esque trimmings, and wicker and antique furnishings. "Supreme" cottages have plunge pools and whirlpool tubs. You can wander the exquisitely landscaped ornamental gardens, which brilliantly counterpoint the wild adjacent rain forest (filigreed with trails), or visit the rustic-chic spa for one of its exotic treatments. Thoughtful extras include beach and town shuttles, as well as TVs and DVD players for rent. Art and Ruth Keusch and their family set the warm, fun-loving, yet cultured tone. Staff are professional, knowing their business but not yours, providing posh pampering without pomp. Pros: posh yet unpretentious luxury; wonderfully helpful staff and owners; gorgeous gardens; excellent dining. Cons: no beach; bumpy access road; long walk from farthest cottages to office.
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