It's difficult for a three-meal all-purpose resort restaurant to provide sophisticated ambience, but come evening art glass and towering candles successfully transform Neve into a sleek, but not slick, Italian trattoria. The antipasti are superb, from a classic caprese salad with homemade mozzarella and eggplant roulade to textbook tuna and wahoo carpaccios. The kitchen scales the heights with its pizzas and pastas: linguini with rocket pesto, green beans, and shrimp; risotto with saffron, braised short ribs, and cocoa nibs; or a perfectly crispy rustica pie (with walnuts, honey and pancetta) that would be the envy of Chicago and Napoli. The fun, hip wine program showcases affordable Italian offerings: 14 reds, 14 whites, five Proseccos by the bottle, carafe, or glass. Finish with a tiramisu that would win the approval of any Tuscan mamma.
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