Coconut Grove

Coconut Grove Review

This thatched-palm roof-and-rough timber structure sports a sensuous South Seas look, best appreciated on the deck as the sun fireballs across the Caribbean. Inside, handsome teak furnishings are animated by Buddhas, parrot-hue throw pillows, batik hangings, and gauzy curtains. The service is warm, the champagne is properly chilled, and the splendid Pacific Rim-Mediterranean fusion fare seems designed to complement the admirable wine selection—with 8,000 bottles it is second on the sister islands only to that of the Four Seasons—rather than the other way around. Owners Gary and Karin Colt often bring winemaker friends in from Europe for tastings and dinners. Stephen "Chef Steve" Smith, a CIA grad and registered dietitian, introduced heart-healthier options such as curry-scented pumpkin soup with fat-free soy cream, grilled line-catch-of-the-day with pumpkin mash and sour-orange beurre-blanc foam, and a miraculously fiber-licious 100-calorie whole-wheat-flour-and-black-bean brownie sweetened with agave syrup. Nonetheless, Gary (who likes his indulgences) laughs, "We're not the food police"; hence the menu includes the likes of burger en brioche with homemade duck foie gras and baby Camembert baked in pear brandy with cranberry confiture. Happy hour, 11 pm-midnight, often ushers in impromptu dancing, continuing the "Bali high" theme. The downstairs "Coco Beach" is hip-hopping and happening with infinity pool for use, sensational St. Kitts views, affordable, creative, lighter daytime fare (try ceviche made—and caught—by sous chef Matt Lloyd, or wondrous watermelon gazpacho goosed with basil), and live music many evenings.