On Saba you can't avoid some hiking, even if you just go to mail a postcard. The big deal, of course, is Mt. Scenery, with 1,064 steps leading to its top. For information about Saba's 18 recommended botanical hikes, check with the Saba Conservation Foundation (Fort Bay. 599/416-3295. Trail Shop, Windwardside. 599/416-2630. www.sabapark.org), which maintains trails, or at the foundation's shop in Windwardside. Botanical tours are available on request. Crocodile James (James Johnson) will explain the local flora and fauna. A guided, strenuous, full-day hike through the undeveloped back side of Mt. Scenery costs about $50.