Tucked discreetly behind gauzy curtains, this restaurant doesn't have to shout to be heard. But chef Roberto Pagan's creative cooking speaks loud and clear. Although it's rather too quaintly divided into sections called Preface, Essays, and Contents, the menu is a wonderful mix of different-size dishes, so you can have your own or share a few with friends. Don't miss the bacon-wrapped dates with blue cheese aioli and the tiny tacos stuffed with slow-cooked duck. If you can't decide, there are two tasting menus: five courses for $70 or seven courses for $95. The half-moon banquette in the front window is the perfect place to try any of the 550 wines from the extensive cellars.
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