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Though the more fertile—and historic—southern half of Montserrat was destroyed by the volcano, emerald hills still reward explorers. Hiking and biking are the best ways to experience this island's unspoiled rain forest, glistening black-sand beaches, and lookouts over the devastation.
Montserrat's former capital had been off-limits to general tourists because of volcanic activity since the 2006 dome collapse of the Soufrière Hills volcano. Before that, the adventuresome could stroll its streets, albeit at their own risk; the situation has changed with the volcano's relative quiescence, but entry is still somewhat limited. Many cabbies and tour operators, who have undergone basic safety training, can arrange escorted tours with advance clearance from the Montserrat Volcano Observatory (the price varies). Once one of the Caribbean's loveliest towns, facing the vividly hued sea, it now resembles a dust-covered lunarscape, with elegant Georgian buildings buried beneath several feet of ash, mud, and rubble (though rain is slowly washing layers away). There is a hazard allowance of EC$150.
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