This pretty, coral-and-white wooden building is garlanded year-round with Christmas lights, a harbinger of the good vibes within. It's the best place to eavesdrop on island gossip, as government functionaries file in for lunch (at least when day-trippers don't take over). Dine either in a trim room or on a breezy veranda (admittedly sans view). Occasionally you'll find old-time dishes like souse, but the menu is generally more upscale: specialties include velvety pumpkin soup, proper escargots, and tender lobster in sultry creole sauce or (even better) tangy garlic sauce. Entrées are served with heaping helpings of salads and sides. Fine desserts (moist carrot cake, cheesecake, and wonderfully textured coconut pie) end the meal and, surprisingly, good take-out pizza is available.