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Restaurants are casual affairs indeed, ranging from glorified rum shops to hotel dining rooms. Most serve classic Caribbean fare, including such specialties as goat water (a thick stew of goat meat, tubers, and vegetables that seems to have been bubbling for days), saltfish cake (codfish fritters), home-brewed ginger beer, and f
Restaurants are casual affairs indeed, ranging from glorified rum shops to hotel dining rooms. Most serve classic Caribbean fare, including such specialties as goat water (a thick stew of goat meat, tubers, and vegetables that seems to have been bubbling for days), salt
Restaurants are casual affairs indeed, ranging from glorified rum shops to hotel dining rooms. Most serve classic Caribb
Restaurants are casual affairs indeed, ranging from glorified rum shops to hotel dining rooms. Most serve classic Caribbean fare, including such specialties as goat water (a thick stew of goat meat, tubers, and vegetables that seems to have been bubbling for days), saltfish cake (codfish fritters), home-brewed ginger beer, and freshly made juices from soursop, mango, blackberry (different from the North American species), guava, tamarind, papaya, and gooseberry.
What to Wear: Dress is informal even at dinner, though skimpy attire is frowned upon by the comparatively conservative islanders. Long pants are preferred, albeit not required, for men in the evening.
Formerly Tina's, this restaurant still occupies a pretty, green-and-white wooden building that's garlanded year-round with Christmas lights, a harbinger of the good vibes within, and it's still the best place to eavesdrop on island gossip, as government functionaries file in for lunch (at least when day-trippers don't take over). In a trim room or on a breezy though viewless verandah, dine on old-time dishes like souse or more upscale specialties such as velvety pumpkin soup, proper escargots, and tender lobster in a sultry creole or (even better) tangy garlic sauce.
Brades, St. Peter, Montserrat
664-491–3538
Known For
Classic local ambience
Heaping helpings of salads and sides as well as good takeout pizza
Fine desserts (wonderfully textured Baileys cheesecake pie)
This delightful coffeehouse percolates with strong java and lively chatter thanks to owners David, Clover, Sun, and Kristina Lea (the folks behind Gingerbread Hill up the road). Volcanic relics, old Montserrat Lime posters, and a wild collection of hats adorn the space. In addition to luscious lattes, you can order bush teas, yummy cinnamon rolls, apple tarts, pure frozen-fruit ice cream, and more. A competitor is always available for a spirited game of chess, darts, or dominoes. All the local artworks and products on the walls are for sale. Hours are irregular, so best to call ahead.
Five different rums power the knockout Olveston Rum Punch, while the animated chatter of locals, expats, and visitors generates its own potent buzz. Picture windows overlook the handsome verandah and gardens at this popular eatery, where chef Sarah Sweeney uses whatever ingredients are available—always creatively—often making fresh wahoo, garlic shrimp, or pork tenderloin. Her sublime sticky toffee pudding, luscious cheesecakes, and mango-ginger crumble are divine. Sailing etchings, period cabinets with mismatched china, and serenading tree frogs create the ambiance of dining at someone's country estate, Caribbean-style. Be sure to call ahead, tables are by reservation only.
Vivacious owners John and Marcia Punter literally hacked Montserrat's most elegant eatery from the rain forest, dressing it with a billowing, white tent as well as pergolas, palm fronds, potted plants, hardwood chairs, jade hurricane shutters, bronze candlesticks, and colorful Moroccan-inspired table settings. The menu (posted on a blackboard) changes daily, but always offers one red meat, one white meat, and one seafood entrée. Generally well-executed dishes lean more toward bistro fare (emphasizing beef entrecôte or goat cheese soufflé over such island staples as fish, though specials like oxtail ravioli happily marry both culinary traditions); the signature butterfly shrimp usually precedes entrées. Despite an erratic schedule (reconfirm reservations), hard-to-find location, and overly relaxed service, the ambience is appealingly serene and upscale.
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