Le Brédas

Le Brédas Review

This culinary experience necessitates a trip into the interior, down winding roads where the dense foliage is jungle-like. It's best navigated, at least the first time, by day; come for lunch on a Sunday. Martinican chef Jean-Charles Brédas is well-known, having worked the better restaurants in Martinique and Manhattan. The tasteful decor includes taupe linen runners on long tables speckled with colored-glass bits; the ceramic plates are the creations of an esteemed local potter, Victor Anicet. The terrace dining room of this century-old house is covered by a peaked white awning. Bredas' mission is to preserve ancient saveurs (flavors), giving traditional island dishes and French classics a contemporary twist. The foie gras is perfectly executed, especially when it's served with green bananas caramelized with rum and pineapple. (This appetizer, his signature dish, is a whopping €33.) One laudable main plat is the robust and tender beef marinated in cocoa, orange, and cardamom. As a special-occasion restaurant, its holiday meals are celebratory, down to the roast suckling pigs. Note: if there aren't enough reservations for dinner, then the restaurant will call all those who reserved to cancel.