At the sign of the billfish, you'll find the kind of beach restaurant you search for but seldom find. It's your basic "feet-in-the-sand" spot, but it's authentic and it opened when owner M. Palmont still made his living by fishing. Now Palmont's pink-and-blue boat is the best one bobbin'. People come for the fisherman's platter, literally the catch of the day (which could be loup de mer [branzino], flying fish, or marlin) with a flavorful red sauce, ripe
tomatoes, perfect red beans and rice, and lentil salad. Grilled crayfish can usually be had Thursday through Saturday. In fact, the best offerings are on the weekend; these might include the fricassee of octopus or conch, which are among the more expensive dishes. Bottles of Neisson rum are plunked in front of a table of the convivial groups of diners here. On Friday night, local bands usually play; they get everyone up and dancing in the sand.
Le Bord de Mer, Carbet, 97221, Martinique