Le François

Le François Review

With some 16,000 inhabitants, this is the main city on the Atlantic coast. Many of the old wooden buildings remain and are juxtaposed with concrete structures. The classic West Indian cemetery, with its black-and-white tiles, is still here, and a marina is at the end of town. Two of Martinique's best hotels are in this area, as well as some of the most upscale residences. Le François is also noted for its snorkeling. Offshore are the privately owned Ilets de l'Impératrice. The islands received that name because, according to legend, this is where Empress Joséphine came to bathe in the shallow basins known as les fonds blanc because of their white-sand bottoms. Group boat tours leave from the harbor and include lunch and drinks. Prices vary. You can also haggle with a fisherman to take you out for a while on his boat. There's a fine bay 6 mi (10 km) farther along the coast where you can swim and go kayaking. The town itself is rather lackluster but authentic, and you'll find a number of different shops and supermarkets, owned by truly lovely, helpful residents.

Habitation Clément. Get a glimpse into Martinique's colonial past, into the elegance and privilege of plantation society. Visitors are now given a multilingual audio headset, which explains highlights of the self-guided tour, such as the animal mill. Signage further educates guests on everything from the rum-making process to the tropical flora and fauna of the botanical garden. The Palm Grove, with an avenue of palms and park benches, is delightful. It was all built with the wealth generated by its rum distillery, and its 18th-century splendor has been lovingly preserved. The plantation's Creole house illustrates the adaption to life in the tropics up through the 20th century. Fascinating ancient maps, an early French typewriter, a crank-up telephone, and decades-old photos of the Clements and Hayots (béké families), are juxtaposed with some of the most avant-garde Afro-Caribbean art from Martinique and neighboring Caribbean islands. Enjoy the free tastings at the bar of the retail shop. Consider the Canne Bleu, Grappe Blanche, or one of the aged rums, some bottled as early as 1952. Domaine de l'Acajou, 97240. 0596/54-62-07. www.habitation-clement.fr. €9. Oct.-Aug., daily 9-5.