St-Pierre

St-Pierre Review

The rise and fall of St-Pierre is one of the most remarkable stories in the Caribbean. Martinique's modern history began here in 1635. By the turn of the 20th century St-Pierre was a flourishing city of 30,000, known as the Paris of the West Indies. As many as 30 ships at a time stood at anchor. By 1902 it was the most modern town in the Caribbean, with electricity, phones, and a tram. On May 8, 1902, two thunderous explosions rent the air. As the nearby volcano erupted, Mont Pelée split in half, belching forth a cloud of burning ash, poisonous gas, and lava that raced down the mountain at 250 mph. At 3,600°F, it instantly vaporized everything in its path; 30,000 people were killed in two minutes.

The Cyparis Express, a small tourist train, will take you around to the main sights with running narrative (in French) for a half hour on Saturday, an hour on weekdays, for €10 (€5 for children).

An Office du Tourisme is on the moderne seafront promenade. Stroll the main streets and check the blackboards at the sidewalk cafés before deciding where to lunch. At night some places have live music. Like stage sets for a dramatic opera, there are the ruins of the island's first church (built in 1640), the imposing theater, and the toppled statues. This city, situated on its naturally beautiful harbor and with its narrow, winding streets, has the feel of a European seaside hill town. With every footstep you touch a page of history. Although many of the historic buildings need work, stark modernism has not invaded this burg. As much potential as it has, this is one town in Martinique where real estate is cheap—for obvious reasons.

For those interested in the eruption of 1902, the Musée Vulcanologique Frank Perret is a must. Established in 1933 by Frank Perret, a noted American volcanologist, who came down to study the volcano. The museum houses photographs of the old town, documents, and a number of relics—some gruesome—excavated from the ruins, including molten glass, melted iron, and contorted clocks stopped at 8 am. An English-speaking guide is often available. Rue Victor Hugo, 97250. 0596/78-15-16. €3. Daily 9-5.

If you want to know more about volcanoes, earthquakes, and hurricanes, check out Le Centre de Découverte des Sciences de la Terre. Housed in a sleek building that looks like a dramatic white box, this earth-science museum has high-tech exhibits and interesting films. Watch the documentary on the volcanoes in the Antilles, highlighting the eruption of the nearby Mont Pelée. This site has fascinating summer programs on Wednesday on dance, cuisine, and ecotourism. Habitation Perinelle, 97250. 0596/52-82-42. www.cdst.cg972.fr. €5. Tues.-Sun. 9-4:30, 9-5:30 in July and Aug.

An excursion to Depaz Distillery is one of the island's nicest treats. Established in 1651, for four centuries it has sat at the foot of the volcano. Following a devastating eruption in 1902, the fields of blue cane were replanted and in time, the rum making began all over again. A self-guided tour includes the workers' gingerbread cottages, and sometimes there will be an exhibit of art and sculpture made from wooden casks and parts of distillery machinery. The tasting room sells its rums, including golden and aged rum and distinctive liqueurs made from orange, ginger, and basil, among others, that can add creativity to your cooking. The plantation's greathouse, or chateau, has opened for public tours for the first time. The former master's house contains a precious collection of colonial-era artifacts, archival documents, Creole period clothing, and antique furniture. The guided tour and movie tells the history of the Depaz family and their rum, and of Martinique's plantation society; it costs €3. A recommendable restaurant, Le Moulin a Canne, serves creole specialties and—you guessed it—Depaz rum to wash it down. Shutters are locked and the staff leaves exactly at 5 pm, so plan on being there by at least 4. Mont Pelée Plantation. 0596/78-13-14. www.depazrhum.com. Free (for the distillery). Weekdays 10-5, Sat. 9-4.