The rise and fall of St-Pierre is one of the most remarkable stories in the Caribbean. Martinique's modern history began here in 1635. By the turn of the 20th century St-Pierre was a flourishing city of 30,000, known as the Paris of the West Indies. As many as 30 ships at a time stood at anchor. By 1902 it was the most modern town in the Caribbean, with electricity, phones, and a tram. On May 8, 1902, two thunderous explosions rent the air. As the nearby volcano erupted, Mont Pelée split in half, belching forth a cloud of burning ash, poisonous gas, and lava that raced down the mountain at 250 mph. At 3,600°F, it instantly vaporized everything in its path; 30,000 people were killed in two minutes.
The Cyparis Express, a small tourist train, will take you around to the main sights with running narrative (in French) for a half hour on Saturday, an hour on weekdays for EUR 10 (EUR 5 for children).
An Office du Tourisme is on the moderne seafront promenade. Stroll the main streets and check the blackboards at the sidewalk cafés before deciding where to lunch. At night some places have live music. Like stage sets for a dramatic opera, there are the ruins of the island's first church (built in 1640), the imposing theater, the toppled statues. This city, situated on its naturally beautiful harbor and with its narrow, winding streets, has the feel of a European seaside hill town. With every footstep you touch a page of history. Although many of the historic buildings need work, stark modernism has not invaded this burg. As much potential as it has, this is one town in Martinique where real estate is cheap—for obvious reasons.
For those interested in the eruption of 1902, the Musée Vulcanologique Frank Perret is a must. Established in 1932 by Frank Perret, a noted volcanologist, the museum houses photographs of the old town, documents, and a number of relics—some gruesome—excavated from the ruins, including molten glass, melted iron, and contorted clocks stopped at 8 AM. Rue Victor Hugo, 97250 e. 0596/78-15-16. EUR 5. Daily 9-5.
If you want to know more about volcanoes, earthquakes, and hurricanes, check out Le Centre de Découverte des Sciences de la Terre. Housed in a sleek building, this earth-science museum has high-tech exhibits and interesting films. Habitation Perinelle, 97250. 0596/52-82-42. www.cdst.cg972.fr. EUR 5, children (up to 17) EUR 3. Tues.-Sun. 9-4:30.
An excursion to Depaz Distillery is one of the island's nicest treats. For four centuries it has sat at the foot of the volcano. In 1902 the greathouse was destroyed in the eruption, but soon after it was courageously rebuilt and the fields replanted. A self-guided tour includes the workers' gingerbread cottages and sometimes there will be an exhibit of art and sculpture made from wooden casks and parts of distillery machinery. A video tells the Depaz story. The tasting room sells their rums, including golden and aged rum and distinctive liqueurs made from ginger and basil, that can add creativity to your kitchen. In 2008 Depaz' rhum d'or (golden rum) won a gold award in the annual French competition. Alas, at last visit, some rums were priced not even close to the correct exchange rate—EUR 12 and then EUR 20—so come with a pocket full of euros. Also, the Depaz Distillery sign is so covered with vegetation that it is difficult to see. If you miss it, you have to go on for miles up a high hill, to the next town before you can turn around. Also, shutters are locked and the staff leaves exactly at 5 PM, so plan on being there at least by 4. Mont Pelée Plantation. 0596/78-13-14. Free. Mon.-Sat. 9-5.
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