To really experience Le Bélem, start with a cocktail in the super-chic bar lined with old black-and-white photographs of the island; a simple 'ti punch gets an elaborate presentation. At this special-occasion restaurant for the well-heeled, the innovative cuisine is served in a contemporary setting, with a bevy of servers who try hard to please, although some diners feel that the menu too limited. It's all definitely expensive, but the complimentary amuse-bouche may save you an appetizer. However, most clients just love being there, especially if they are having a romantic interlude. A cylindrical wine "cave" is the dramatic focal point. The menu changes seasonally: the latest favorite is red snapper with lime crust, socca pancake, and eggplant cavier. Grand cru chocolate souffle with tonka beans, tangerine and cumbava sorbet, is an unexpected dessert. Although less glamorous, lunch at Campeche, the beach restaurant, is still a treat, and provides a more affordable alternative. It opens for dinner in high season. Hotel guests take their "wonderful breakfast" at Le Bélem, and during the season, it's open seven nights a week.