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Restaurants Overview

Martinique cuisine is a fusion of African and French and is certainly more international and sophisticated than that of its immediate island neighbors. The influx of young chefs, who favor a contemporary, less-caloric approach, has brought exciting innovations to the table. This haute nouvelle creole cuisine emphasizes local products, predominantly starchy tubers like plaintains, white yams, yucca, and island sweet potatoes, as well as vegetables like breadfruit, christophene, and taro leaves. Many creole dishes have been Francofied, transformed into mousselines, terrines, and gratins topped with creamy sauces. And then there's the bountiful harvest of the sea -- lambi (conch), langouste (clawless local lobsters), and dozens of species of fish predominate, but you can also find ouassous (freshwater crayfish, which are as luscious as jumbo prawns).

Some local creole specialties are accras (cod or vegetable fritters), crabes farcis (stuffed land crab), and feroce (avocado stuffed with salt fish and farina). You can fire up fish and any other dish with a hit of hot chien (dog) sauce. Not to worry -- it's made from onions, shallots, hot peppers, oil, and vinegar. To cool your jets, have a 'ti punch -- four parts white rum and one part sugarcane syrup.

Finding an American-style lunch is not impossible. Supermarkets often have snack bars that serve sandwiches, as do the bakeries and larger gas stations like Esso and Total. Les supermarchés, such as Champion, have deli sections that have sinful French fromages and luscious pâtés, as well as French wines for significantly less than at home; add a long, thin baguette and you have lunch. DeliFrance, the French chain, has locations in most tourist areas. And there are crêperies and pizza shacks, even an African pizza place in Le François. Menu prices in general will seem high but do include tax and service. Prix-fixe menus, sometimes with wine, can be a relative bargain.

What to Wear

For dinner, casual resort wear is appropriate. Generally, men do not wear jackets and ties, as they did in decades past, but they do wear collared shirts. Women typically wear light cotton sundresses, short or long. At dinnertime, beach attire is too casual for most restaurants. Nice shorts are okay for lunch, depending on the venue, but jeans and shorts aren't acceptable at dinner. Keep in mind that in Martinique lunch is usually a wonderful three-course, two-hour affair.