Martinique Restaurants

Martinique cuisine is a fusion of African and French and is certainly more international and sophisticated than that of its immediate island neighbors. The influx of young chefs, who favor a contemporary, less-caloric approach, has brought exciting innovations to the table. This haute-nouvelle creole cuisine emphasizes local products, predominantly starchy tubers like plaintains, white yams, yucca, and island sweet potatoes, as well as vegetables like breadfruit, christophene, and taro leaves. Many creole dishes have been Francofied, transformed into mousselines, terrines, and gratins topped with creamy sauces. And then there's the bountiful harvest of the sea—lambi (conch), langouste (clawless local lobsters), and dozens of species of fish predominate, but you can also find ouassous (freshwater crayfish, which are as luscious as jumbo prawns).

Some local creole specialties are accras (cod or vegetable fritters), crabes farcis (stuffed land crab), and feroce (avocado stuffed with salt fish and farina). You can fire up fish and any other dish with a hit of hot chien (dog) sauce. Not to worry—it's made from onions, shallots, hot peppers, oil, and vinegar. To cool your jets, have a 'ti punch—four parts white rum and one part sugarcane syrup.

Supermarkets often have snack bars that serve sandwiches, as do the bakeries and larger gas stations like Esso and Total. Supermarkets, such as Champion, have good deli sections and sell French wines for significantly less than at home. DeliFrance, the French chain, has locations in most tourist areas. Travelers on a budget will find creperies and pizzarias, even an African pizza place in Le François. In Fort-de-France's city market, ladies serve up creole prix-fixe meals that can include accras, fricassee of octopus and conch, chicken in coconut milk, or grilled whole fish. Sadly, a long-time culinary landmark, La Belle Epoque, has "retired" and is sorely missed. As for euro sticker shock, the consolation is that the dollar has recently gained strength, and although menu prices may seem steep, they include tax and service. Prix-fixe menus, sometimes with wine, can help keep costs in line.

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