Hotels Overview

Larger hotels usually include a big buffet breakfast of eggs, fresh fruit, cheese, yogurt, croissants, baguettes, jam, and café au lait. Smaller relais (inns) often have open-air terrace kitchenettes. Almost all have both smoking and no-smoking rooms, but ask if this is important to you. Most do not have elevators and many are built on hillsides, so if you have issues with stair- or path-climbing, be sure to ask about that, too.

Villas & Condominiums

If you're staying a week or longer, you can often save money by renting a villa or apartment with a kitchen where you can prepare your own meals. The more upscale rentals come with French-speaking maids and/or cooks. Don't forget to add in the cost of a car rental to your vacation budget. French Caribbean International (800/322-2223. www.frenchcaribbean.com), an English-speaking reservation service operated for decades by Gerard Hill, can help you with both villa rentals and hotel rooms. At the Villa Rental Service (0596/71-56-11. 0596/63-11-64) an English-speaking staffer can help you find a home, a villa, or an apartment to rent for a week or a month. Most properties are in the southern part of the island near good beaches.