Martinique Feature

Dining in Martinique is a delightful culinary experience, but as with driving here, it is best to get some directions before you head out. First of all, as in France, entrées are appetizers; the main courses will usually be labeled as follows: poissons (fish); viandes (meat); or principal plats (literally, main courses). You will notice that the appetizers are almost as expensive as the mains—and if the appetizer is foie gras, you'll pay just as much as for a main course, but it is oh so worth it.

Entrecôte is a sirloin steak, usually cut too thin. A filet mignon is a rarity, but you will see filet mignon du porc, which is pork tenderloin. Ecrivesses (known also as ouassous or z'habitants) are incredible freshwater crayfish. Don't be alarmed when they are served with their heads on. Similarly, if a fish dish does not specify fillet, you will be looking into its eyes while carving flesh from its bones.

Every respectable restaurant has an admirable wine carte, and the offerings will be almost completely French, with few half bottles. Wines by the glass are often swill and best avoided.

Finally, don't ever embarrass yourself by asking for a doggie bag: you will be considered gauche!