This culinary experience necessitates a trip into the interior, down winding roads where the dense foliage is jungle-like. It's best navigated, at least for the first time, by day. Come for lunch, and should you decide to return for a memorable dinner you will have already mapped it out. Martinican chef Jean-Charles Brédas is well known, having worked in some of Manhattan's better restaurants. His lovely wife is a gracious hostess. The tasteful decor includes taupe linen runners on large tables speckled with colored-glass bits; the ceramic plates are the creations of an esteemed local potter. The foie gras is perfectly executed, especially when it's served with green bananas carmelized with rhum vieux and pineapple. (This appetizer, his signature dish, is a whopping EUR 33.) One laudable main plat is the robust and tender beef marinated in cocoa, orange, and cardamom. The terrace dining room of this century-old house is covered by a peaked white awning.