Boating and Sailing in Martinique

You can rent Hobie Cats, Sunfish, and Sailfish by the hour from most hotel beach shacks. As for larger crafts, bareboat charters can be had for $1,900 to $7,000 a week, depending on the season and the size of the craft. The Windward Islands are a joy for experienced sailors, but the channels between islands are often windy and have high waves. You must have a sailing license or be able to prove your nautical prowess, though you can always hire a skipper and crew. Prior to setting out, you can get itinerary suggestions; the safe ports in Martinique are many. If you charter for a week, you can go south to St. Lucia or Grenada or north to Dominica, Guadeloupe, and Les Saintes. One-way sailing to St. Martin or Antigua is a popular choice.

Don't even consider striking out on the rough Atlantic side of the island unless you're an experienced sailor. The Caribbean side is much calmer—more like a vast lagoon.

Punch Croisières (Bd. Allègre, Le Marin, 97290. 0596/74-89-18. www.punch-croisieres.com) is a local, French-owned charter company with a fleet of 15 sailboats, 13 of which are catamarans from 38 to 57 feet; they go out bareboat or crewed.

Sunsail (Le Marin, 97290. 0596/74-77-61; 888/350-3568 in U.S. www.sunsail.com) is one of the largest yacht-charter companies in the world. Although it's primarily a bareboat operation, those with limited experience can hire skippers by the week. Ocean kayaks can be rented, too, and must be reserved in advance. Check the Web site for discount deals even in winter.

Windward Island Cruising Company (Le Marin, 97290. 0596/74-31-14. www.sailing-adventure.com) has sailboats from 30 to 70 feet.

Located on the west coast, Anse-d'Arlets is a delightful fishing village with a historic church and wooden gingerbread houses. It is yacht friendly and has several sheltered coves; charter boats usually anchor on Grand Anse or Petite Anse. Ti Sable is a waterfront restaurant that has a fun scene. Sunday brunch is a big event, with a good and moderately priced buffet.